Friday, April 2
Bangladesh Surf Club
Thursday, January 28
Boksheesh: The Case of "Forward Asking"
Sunday, January 17
STUCK Part II: Drowning in boiling water
Work at the training center is going well. My girls are used to me sitting with them, watching over their shoulder, taking notes. There hasn’t been any emergencies since Shona’s accident, gratefully, so days go by with ease.
Shona hasn’t been in to the center since her accident, and didn’t attend her certificate ceremony. Tuesday morning, I ask the girls how she is doing.
“Oh, Shona is better, but her daughter is hurt—a pot of boiling rice water fell on her.”
Minutes later, I’m back on a rickshaw with one other girl and a staff worker, heading to Shona’s house. Driving through the morning fog, we are back at the same slum. I feel less jerks bouncing around the roughly paved roads, going with the flow of the devastating surroundings. As we climb through the entrance of the cluster of homes where she lives, the curious crowd of 20 people follows.
Shona begins to cry as we enter the small one-room, dirt floor hut that she calls a home. Sitting on her bed with her feet flat under her, her little daughter sits on her left hip, donned in a ski cap and wrapped in a shawl. The first and last time I met this beautiful, long-lashed baby girl, she looked at me and crawled into my lap as if we were old friends. Many children stare at me in wonder, and my auntie’s nephew cries every time he sees me. But this little one isn’t afraid or intensely curious of my eyes or skin, and just relaxes.
Now I see her, sitting on her mother who holds the baby’s right arm out and away from the shawl. Her neck is covered in round, tender bubbles where her skin boiled from the water, down her shoulder. On her arm is 6-inch burn, her skin yellow and shiny. Dried blood surrounds her wrist and elbow. Biting back my own tears, I wipe away Shona’s as her pressed her daughter’s head into her breast.
We chat with her a bit, looking at the medicines the doctor gave her and allow her to vent to us. With the door crowded, the staff worker shoos them away to give them some space and privacy (not a common habit in Bangladesh.) One little girl stayed, hanging around the door, inching closer over the visit until she was sitting on my knee.
I gave Shona a small Christmas gift, as I did with the rest of the girls, and she wore her new earrings right away. As I hugged her to leave, I slipped her some more taka. With neighbors still watching, I didn’t want to be obvious. And I couldn’t help but look to the skies and say, “She just healed herself, and now her daughter is in pain. All their money is being spent on medicines because of accidents. She can't work because she's taking care of her baby, and her husband's a deadbeat. How can this happen twice to the same family in one month?”
It was an easier visit than the first, I suppose the misery is becoming routine to me too. Bouncing back in the rickshaw, holding the other woman’s hand, I wondered if it was harmful or helpful to become numb to grief out of survival. I arrived at the center with no answer.
Friday, December 4
Supporting a Cause: The Case of Organ-Grinding Charities
Tuesday, November 10
STUCK: between a rock and a hard place--or a car and a rickshaw..
I arrived at the center today to hear that Shona* was home sick. I imagined a cold or cramps. The story unfolds that a few days earlier she went to the market and was smashed in between a rickshaw and a CNG, penetrating her stomach.
With one other girl from the center Lila*, myself and three aid workers head to Shona’s house. Weaving through the cool morning on a rickshaw, one aid worker Rahim* shares Shona’s story. Her parents are not around and she is married to a man who “is not bad, but not good.” She was a sex worker for a few years when she had no other livelihood available. Finding the organization, she has been working for them doing crafts and making a steady income. Her husband doesn’t work and relies on Shona to support him and their two year-old daughter. The other aid workers gush about Shona, saying that she never argues with the other girls and always helps them when they need it. I see it in her: she is a complete doll. She and I have dance sessions to entertain everyone at the center. It’s uncommon for a Bangla woman to laugh as loud as she does, and I mirror it with my own.
It starts getting quiet as we get farther away from city’s business center and the sun stronger as the buildings shrink from 5 stories to at most 2 levels. The roads increasingly dirtier, bumpier, at parts non-existent or slanted from earthquakes. Getting off the rickshaw in an alley that can fit only three persons, Lila leads us through the garbage filled ditches rotting in the sun. A constant cloud of flies swarm around my feet as we step into a cluster of tin homes, each perhaps three times the size of my clothes closet on Long Island. Seeing aid workers and a bideshi (foreigner), adults and children start popping out of everywhere to follow us. Shona’s name is whispered amongst the indistinct Bangla around me when we enter her home.
She was lying on a bed lined with a plastic table cloth with one sheet covering her. The bed took up one third of the entire house (one room) with tin walls and ceiling. Her husband stood in the corner, watching us pile in with the curious entourage behind us. The rest of the room had one chair and shelves with clothes, pots and plastic bags with personal belongings.
Shona was moaning in pain, holding her stomach. Seeing us, she began to cry and grasped onto my arm, mumbling in Bangla. I covered her forehead with kisses. She lifted up her sheet and revealed the wound. I looked away, I couldn’t see it. Her daughter came around the corner with the biggest eyes and sweetest cheeks, happily placing herself in my lap as she watched her mother breath heavy. Bangla was thrown around the tiny hut too fast for me to understand. Just as I felt that I was going to hit someone if I wasn’t informed as to what was happening, Rahim finally explained: the doctor saw her for a few minutes, gave her 2-weeks worth of antibiotics cost 1000tk and Shona’s husband took out a loan of 500tk to pay for the visit but now have no money to pay for food. That’s about 20 dollars. I handled the money situation but I was so concerned about what she was feeling now. Ambulances don’t really exist, no car or even bicycle could make it to her slum door: so she must walk with this pain to the street, get on a rickshaw and bounce her way through the slum then through traffic to the hospital.
What else can we do, I keep pestering. A stretcher to the street and I'll get a taxi? Can we bring a doctor to her? I was met with nothing but blank stares. Nothing else could be done.
But that’s all I can do right now. I don’t know what else to do. Recalling the monring, it reads like any other humanitarian documentary covering a similar story. That’s what is so sad: there are so many stories like this: continuously and daily, too common that it’s cliché. But I cannot bellow loud enough or clearly enunciate how though it is prevalent, it is still continuously harrowing and crippling for them. Shona may not have experienced life outside of permanent devastation, but that doesn’t mean that she is ignorant that it should be better.
* Names have been changed.
Friday, October 2
Finding a Diamond in the Rough: The Case of 'Absolut' Beauty
Well, I certainly didn’t expect it when I showed up in jeans and a T-shirt, and all the women were in beautiful cocktail dresses. It never occurred to me to bring a knee length dress to a country where there are still recent accounts of acid thrown on women who disobey husbands. But low and behold – there is some good fashion here! I also didn’t think that I would be handed a shot of tequila in Bangladesh – but what’dja know…
My good friend Sayaka invited me to her friend Nadia’s party. Everyone I met over the next few hours were from all over the world: Morocco, Turkey, Britain, India – and plenty of Bangladeshis who have lived abroad. And apparently there was a famous Bangladeshi singer there (forgetting her name) that I sat in the booth with as we drank champagne bought by the son of a Turkish ambassador.
Not to assume that any of these people were ignorant elites; but I will say that it is entirely possible to never see the torment and destitution of Bangladesh if you tint your BMW windows dark enough. If there is a middle class here, it is miniscule and hidden – but the upper class is too ostentatious to not be noticed. I’ve personally been struggling with the reality of this nation because I walk on the street, passing slow enough to see the desolation, the un-organization and the systematic corruption. Now I found myself screened from it all behind frosted bottles of Absolut and green strobe lights.
But, there was a diamond in the rough, and I received a beautiful dose of optimism..
After some crazy dancing, I sat next to a Brit named Marc. I knew he was visiting his sister, a friend of Sayaka’s. After revealing he had been in Dhaka for three days, I asked him what he thought of Bangladesh. His face lit up with excitement, “Oh it’s so wonderful! I was expecting insane poverty and devastation, I was expecting to cry. But instead, all I’ve seen is the amazing ability of people to adapt and smile through adversity. They live in squalor, everything’s a mess, but they live just like you and I do!” He was stumbling over his words – one could blame the potency of the alcohol, but I could feel it was the intensity of his feelings: “Maybe this is condescending, maybe I’m just naïve, but I’m just so surprised and happy at how beautiful everyone is, how strong they are, and how they just make their lives work. I love our species, we really are wonderful! I mean, if London or New York was destroyed right now, yeah it would be devastating, but we’d adapt, wouldn’t we?”
Immediately I thought: “I don’t know what frightens me more, the power that crushes us, or our endless ability to endure it.” (G.D. Roberts, Shantaram). But Marc wasn’t frightened, and neither was I. For once I’ve said, “Every day I saw the pain of these girls, struggling to overcome their violent past. And every day, I saw their endless ability to continue to dance, to smile, and to love.”
Amidst the superficiality, I found some grace. And that’s what it’s about: our view on the world is a choice, an active choice to nominate optimism as the winner. And where would any sports team or famous actress be without their fans? We need to be a fan of reality, of our race, of this world. This man reminded me of this in a place least expected. Beauty is everywhere but you can’t find it or believe in it if you hide – or even walk to fast with your chin up.
Sunday, September 6
Development In(-)Action: North Bengal Part II
“They hung their heads in shame as their mother stood behind them, the end of their sari wrapped around their head and mouth, listening to their children’s grades read aloud to the entire village…”
Last Saturday my friend Maude was gracious enough to let me tag along to watch her work with her NGO. We hop on the back of her friend’s motorbike that takes us to the river. Maude turns to me and said, “Today we are going to a char to do interviews.” We climb onto this long wooden boat with a motor, bamboo roof and wicker mats to sit on.
“Oh, by the way, the trip is almost two hours.”
Staff from the NGO climb into the boat; one is able to speak English, Maude’s translator from the NGO. They all play card games or nap the whole trip, while Maude and I speak with the translator about Bengal politics and finance. At one point, the sun was hidden behind the clouds, so we head to the top of the boat. Quietly we pray that the bamboo will hold us and the three other staff members sitting on the roof under umbrellas. No worries – it did. And how refreshing: cool breeze, clean air, no noise or staring. Laying up there, I could breathe.
We drop off other staff members at different chars and we ended up at Sidai. The reason for Maude’s visit was to interview teachers and students about a ‘student-friend’ program the NGO started. A student from the school must tutor a child who doesn’t have the chance to go to school. Tutoring them enough should bring them up to speed to join school the following year. Maude needed to see how effective this initiative was by talking to teachers, students and the principal.
As we get off the boat, we must walk through mud barefoot, into shallow, murky water that almost reached my knees. The bottom the river was super slippery with mud and I kept slippin’ and slidin’ all over. We get on land, albeit not dry, but solid was all I could ask for. Walking through this little forest of skinny trees, the ground became less muddy the farther we got from the river.
Then the parade of children began to grow behind us the closer we became to the village. A couple, a few, several, a dozen, a few dozen… The children at least keep a safe distance from you. When we walk through, it’s like the parting of the Red Sea, opening in front and closing behind. But it’s a sea of little black and dusty faces.
“What is your name?” they ask. After my response, in their little accented voices, ‘Amanda’ is echoed back a few hundred times. Maude is speaking with the different staff about the project for the day, while I try to play with the children. ‘Try’ being the operative word because it’s so hot I can barely breathe. Plus, I don’t want to drink water in front of a crowd of people who 1) can’t keep their eyes off of me and 2) are fasting. Ramadan rules my life.
Maude invites me to sit in on her interview with a teacher about the “student-friend” program. A vital part of interviewing is having a good translator: who understands what you are trying to accomplish, and does not have anything invested in the project. Maude’s translator was sweet, but because he works for the NGO, he often answered the questions himself without asking the interviewee. At one point, a question was asked to the principal who responded, “jani na” – I don’t know. The translator turned to Maude and answered the question himself. Maude knew enough Bangla to know the response was “I don’t know.” She said to me, “How am I supposed to help them improve the program if they won’t tell me the truth about how it works? If they don’t know an answer or are frustrated with something, I need to know so we can fix it.”
Bangladesh is one of, if not the, center of development. There is a mammoth amount of foreign aid pouring into the country as well as development projects and programs. The biggest NGO in the world is Bangladeshi: BRAC. And from my experience, Bangladeshis are very nationalistic, very proud of their culture and country, regardless of its shortcomings (like poverty and corruption). I found that talking to Bangladeshis here, they only share what they love about Bangladesh, rarely what they dislike. Other countries I’ve been to like India, Japan, Italy; the citizens will give a well-rounded view of their country – the pluses and minuses. But as a foreigner here, I am only lectured on the golden qualities of Bangladesh.
I wonder if this overwhelming pride is shared with me because most people assume (rightly so) that I, a foreigner, am here working on a development project. So many foreigners are coming in to discuss all the problems and things wrong with Bangladesh, trying to ‘fix’ her: from labor rights to how they should kill their chickens. Constantly they are put on the defense about their culture (especially their religion) attempting to shed a good light to people who often see the dark side. Their patriotism is reasonable.
But from a development perspective, NGOs seek the terrible stories in order to develop. The reality and truth must be shared, no matter how embarrassing or tragic it is. For Maude, it was vital for her to hear the reality of the program: what worked and what didn’t. Money is hard to come by for NGOs and it’s better to know that it’s being spent on effective, positive and well-liked projects than a project that is dispensable. Tough choices have to be made. She also understood that it is difficult to come to a char for the first time demanding answers. It’s intimidating. As someone working to create change, you have to know the people, have them trust you – so you can trust them that they will give helpful, truthful responses.
It’s slow, which is frustrating because funders want results – fast. Destruction is easy, development is slow.
Later, we had the chance to sit in on a parent-teacher conference. And by parent-teacher conference, I mean a conference with most of the parents and all of the students, and a few of the teachers. The leaders of the NGO read all grades aloud to everyone. Everyone clapped for the students who received 100s across the board. One NGO leader turned to me a few times when some boys were called, saying “There goes the next President Obama!” I know it was said in pride of the student, certainly, of course - but no girl was remarked as being the ‘next Hilary Clinton’ or even their own Prime Minister, Sheikh Hasina. Girls are still devalued, but that's my next entry...
The student who failed and were lowered in rank – they hung their heads in shame as their mother stood behind them, the end of their sari wrapped around their head and mouth, listening to their child’s shortcomings said aloud to the entire village. The leaders of the NGO end with: “You should pay more attention to your child and their school activities.”
I sat there in the heat, burning at this NGO. I don’t think competition is ever a good way to teach children. Instead of competing with other students in the village, the child should work and be pushed to the best of his abilities. Unfortunately, it is about 99% sure that these children aren’t going to grow up to be the next Prime Minister, or even a political leader. They live in a village surrounded by water with little electricity and a school that just arrived three years ago. It’s not negative -- it’s reality. Instead of them competing for first rank and grades, they should just be learning to improve their quality of life by reading and writing. The first place to start is by not announcing grades aloud, because both the children and parents were humiliated in front of their friends and neighbors. One-on-one meetings are much more effective: the teacher, who knows the student, can talk to the parents about their child’s progress: both positives and negatives; not a NGO leader who stops by a few times a month.
Also, the NGO was telling parents, “pay more attention to your children.” Let’s think about this: do you honestly think that the parents, after sitting in a hot room for two hours, half of them embarrassed that their child did poorly, will actually go home to ask their children about their day, because some man told them to in a lecture?
One-on-one meetings again are effective, because the teacher can sit down with the parents and find out how their home situation is. Maybe little Ahmed is sleeping in class and failing because his father lost his job so little Ahmed works after school while his parents scramble to find work at night, leaving little Ahmed to watch two other siblings because his mother can’t afford birth control. A large meeting could not discover this – you must be one-on-one with a person to understand their needs, the reason for their needs and the capacity they have to do something about it, and what role you can play.
I can’t blame the NGO for these shortcomings. Too often do development programs fail not because they were ineffective, or they had bad leadership – but because funding is lacking. A lack of funding leads to a lack of capacity so unfortunately, it might not be feasible for this NGO to perform one-on-one meetings because they can't afford to pay overtime to the staff that might be overworked.
What's shameful: I hear that because there is not much structure here in Bangladesh and no follow-up or registration, some NGOs exist for profit with a façade of charity. Maude told me that one NGO built a well right next to another well in one village just to state on their Annual Report that they ‘provided a new clean well for a village up north.’ It was a façade to boast for funding, but utterly useless to the village who already had a well.
It’s a tricky business, which is unpromising because so much good could be accomplished with development research and studies -- it shouldn’t have to be a business.
Tuesday, August 18
The Greatest Acting Feat
Wednesday, July 29
Upsetting Conundrums: First Day Part III
While we head back to the school for lunch, we ran into a student of Susan’s. Susan stops her to ask if she is taking another class. The girl responds, sure, then says, “Oh no, I’m heading back to the UK this Saturday.” Susan responds, “Well, you must pay for your classes.” The girl responds she did; Susan corrects her by saying that she only paid the registration fee. The girl promises to come tomorrow. As we walk away, Susan vents saying, “No offense, but this happens a lot with foreigners. They leave without paying. It is very hard to get a hold of you because your life here is temporary.” That pissed me off, that foreigners are giving this reputation.

Back at the school, myself, the principal and the five English teachers ate lunch – a typical Bengali lunch: bhat, dal, aloo, dim (rice, dal – a lentil soup to pour over rice, potato, egg). It was delicious and perfect. I listened to them all talking in Bangla, excited for when I can understand and converse with them. I think spending this extra time with Bangladeshis will be advantageous to my language skills.
After lunch, I left and bought three new salwar kameezes: bright purple and yellow (a mix of my mother and grandmother J ), a baby blue and white that needs tailoring, and a tourquiose and navy. There are so many colors and styles to wear! As I walk down the muddy streets (thank God for Tevas), each rickshaw driver stops to see if I need a ride. After I’m done, I go to a stand to buy mangoes and oranges. About 7 beggars approach me: women with disfigured faces and bodies carrying sleeping, naked babies, old Muslim men in wheelchairs, little children either half dressed or wearing grimy clothes too big for their underfed bodies. I give the change of my fruit to the man in the wheelchair because he was the closest then I bolted into a nearby rickshaw.
First off, if you have seen Slumdog Millionaire, they did an accurate portrayl of begging cartels. A handful of men will take children and the destitute from off the street and send them out to beg. Whatever they make, they hand over to the men in power. This was told to me in India and Bangladesh by locals. But, how do you know? “You just ignore it.” I ignore it. Me, who was well fed during lunch, who heads back to her nice little apartment, arms full of shopping and grocery bags. But, there’s a line from my favourite poem: “Never feeling more greedy than when handing dollars to the needy” (“Dive” by Andrea Gibson). Giving them 10tk (14 cents) feels more greedy because I just spent 3300tk ($50) on pretty little outfits.
It’s an upsetting conundrum, that’s all I can say.
